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Mercurey is a Côte Chalonnaise appellation covering 640 hectares in the communes of Mercurey and Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu. The appellation includes 85 village AOCs and 32 climats recognized as Premier Cru. Officially established since 1936 and much sought-after for its richly aromatic red wines, it also produces white wines with a very interesting style.

 

A privileged terroir with a rich history

 

Mercurey’s history dates back to Roman times. By building a temple to Mercury, the Romans gave the village its name and planted vines. Later, this history became closely linked with that of Château de Montaigu and the Dukes of Burgundy. The latter played a major role in its development, purchasing colossal quantities. The papal community and the kings of France were also major players. As elsewhere in France, the vineyards were hit by phylloxera, which decimated the vines in the 19th century. It wasn’t until 1902 that the vineyard was truly reconstituted. However, the years 1920-1930 saw the outbreak of mildew further reduce the size of the vineyard, followed by heavy hail and frost, as well as devastating storms in subsequent years. Today, the climate is more balanced: temperate and continental, it still gives rise to frosts depending on the year, but harvests are less affected. Planted a few hundred meters above sea level, Mercurey’s vines benefit from marl and limestone soils that enable the vines to feed deeply on nutrients. Their east, south-east and south-facing slopes are ideal for Pinot Noir, which, like Chardonnay, flourishes.

Wine, king of meals

 

Mercurey red wines are richly aromatic, with fruity notes of red and black fruits such as cherry, raspberry and blackberry, as well as floral touches of lilac, rose and licorice. Tannins are present but do not dominate the wine. They give good ageing potential without inhibiting the freshness of pinot noir. It’s in a league of its own among great wines, and takes the lion’s share of the meal as a perfect accompaniment to all types of meat, whether grilled or in sauce. It also goes wonderfully well with exotic dishes and cheese platters.

The white wines are floral and fruity, with citrus notes such as lemon and white-fleshed fruit flavors such as peach. Its renowned minerality makes it a perfect match for grilled fish or fish in sauce, cooked seafood, Asian cuisine and hard cheeses.

 

Le Mercurey 2017

 

Due to a vintage subject to the vagaries of the weather, between spring frost and summer drought, Mercurey’s 2017 vintage is very heterogeneous. The Premier Cru appellations have maintained a fairly high level of quality, while the village appellations have fallen on hard times. White wines, on the other hand, are of a good standard, even if they remain a minority in the appellation.

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