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A forgotten grape variety

Molette de Savoie was a Savoyard grape variety that was popular in mountain vineyards until the first half of the 20th century. Wines made from this grape are often low in alcohol and not very aromatic, which is why many winemakers prefer more classic varieties such as Altesse or Chardonnay. In fact, some choose to combine it with the latter to avoid falling into this trap. Despite all this, some winemakers manage to sublimate this unloved grape variety, often with surprisingly beautiful results.

Still white wines

Today, the Molette de Savoie is found only in Bugey, a wine-growing region attached to Savoie, still relatively unknown to the general public and infamous for wines that are not interesting to taste. But, like many mountain vineyards – such as the Jura, Savoy or the Pyrenean Piedmont – it is experiencing a revival of quality driven by a new generation of winegrowers, seeking greater recognition for their work and their terroir.

The Molette de Savoie is an integral part of this new face of Bugey. One of the few positive aspects of climate change is that the grapes have time to ripen before the autumn rains. As a result, we can produce wines from Molette de Savoie with a good alcohol content (12-13°) and a certain aromatic intensity. The wines therefore have a minimum of roundness and greediness on the palate, whereas the Molettes of yesteryear had a watery sensation.

The Molette de Savoie should be given a chance to shine, since gourmet food is a pleasure to eat. Of course, it loses none of the freshness we look for in high-altitude wines, and expresses itself in a register of white flowers and lightly fruity green apple aromas. The quintessence of mountain limestone vineyards: freshness, flowers and fresh fruit. We’re almost approaching the expression of certain Chasselas grapes from neighboring Savoy – another variety long relegated to the rank of table grapes and shunned by many winemakers. A superb wine to accompany fondue or raclette evenings.

Sparkling wines from Seyssel

Molette de Savoie is also an emblematic grape variety for Seyssel sparkling wines. It is often blended with Altesse and Chasselas. Excellent value for money if you can find a good one, Seyssel sparkling wine will charm lovers of champagnes and sparkling wines with a certain acidity. The bubbles are very upright, highlighting the notes of white flowers already present in the still Molettes de Savoie.

Array

De Loïc Bozouklian

Membre d'Elyxir, association étudiante d'oenologie.

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