Tannat or the art of living in Béarn

Madiran, a small appellation in the heart of Béarn, has always given pride of place to Tannat in its wines. A cousin of Cahors’ Malbec, it brings a lot of character to the wines, a character that fits in well with the local art of living.

Tannat, as its name suggests, is high in tannin. The phenolic richness of its berries – i.e. their tannin content – is on average twice as high as in most other grape varieties! But it also gives Madiran wines all or part of their aromatic palette. It begins with notes of jammy black fruit (blackcurrant, blackberry), followed by a spicy aroma that almost reminds us of Béarn pepper.

In addition to its remarkable aromatics and concentration of tannins, Tannat is also high in acidity, which means it has everything it takes to produce wines for laying down. As the years go by, the tannins and acidity will fade and “round out” the wine, giving it a velvety mouthfeel. Depending on the estate and the cuvée, this can take up to 20 years. The aromas will also change, taking on a foresty character with mushrooms and game.

However, this is not only due to the Tannat grape, but also to the Madiran terroir, i.e. clay soil and a very sunny climate, without suffering from heat thanks to the nearby Pyrenees.

Competition from other grape varieties in Madiran?

The specifications for theMadiran appellation require winemakers to include at least 50% Tannat in the final blend. In addition to the 100% Tannat single-varietal wines, there are also blended wines. Then come Fer Servadou and Cabernet-Franc, Pinenc and Bouchy as the locals will tell you, as well as Manseng noir. There’s no need to worry about Tannat, which still holds sway in this little corner of France. It’s the wine that leads the way.

So what to make of Madiran? The key is to stay close to your terroir: duck, king of the South West, is a perfect match for your wine. A good wood-grilled duck breast will bring all the power and fat necessary to balance the virility in your glass. With age, don’t hesitate to start with finer dishes, such as roast pigeon on the chest, which will put the wine back in its forest universe.

An international grape variety

Tannat, the Madiran grape variety, has also enjoyed a strong international following, since when Basque and Béarn winemakers crossed the Atlantic in the 19th century, they took a few vines with them. As a result, Uruguay’s vineyards, which are now booming, rely on a majority of Tannat in their viticulture. It benefits from a terroir quite similar to that of Madiran.