An estate built for future generations

Patrice du Jeu, current owner of the Héritiers Saint-Genys estate, didn’t set out for a life as a winemaker when he took over the estate in 2010. A Parisian restaurateur, he is a wine lover, particularly of Burgundy wines. As luck would have it, he received a call from a friend offering to take over the disused Héritiers Saint-Genys estate.

He went into partnership with his uncle and settled in Chassagne-Montrachet, one of Burgundy’s leading winegrowing regions. The first step is to get off to a good start. So they replanted some of the vines that had suffered from the previous owners’ lack of care. The same goes for the winery and cellar, which he is modernizing. Once this stage has been completed, the estate is ready to return to its former glory. To this end, Patrice du Jeu works with Baptiste Alinc, a trained oenologist, who helps him to better understand his terroirs and wines.

At the same time, the Clos de Marcilly in Mercurey was bought out and also benefited from a replanting program. This acquisition completes the domaine’s range, which extends over some of the Côte de Beaune’s finest terroirs, including the premier cru Charmes in Meursault and the premier cru Clos Saint-Jean in Chassagne-Montrachet. The domaine also offers Beaujolais wines from the village of Morgon.

Sharing great wines

The domaine boasts a fine range of wines to suit all tastes and prices. But they all receive the same treatment. Patrice du Jeu’s philosophy is that “You can’t make good wine without good grapes. To get good grapes, you have to give a lot to the vine. It knows how to give back. I like wine from all regions, if it’s well made, with love and passion. For me, there are no great wines and little wines.

All the vines were then converted to “lutte raisonnée”, i.e. minimal use of phytosanitary products, only when there was a real risk of disease. In the same way, working the soil is very important on the estate, enabling the vines to flourish in the best possible conditions. Wines from the wine trade, i.e. the purchase of grapes, musts (fermented grape juice) or wines, meet the same requirements. The aim is to select only the best from the domain and its partners.

Estate wines

As for white wines, the domaine boasts a fine range, starting with a white Bourgogne and a Bourgogne Aligoté. A lovely, fresh entry to the range. The Aligoté has a floral, nutty character, while the Chardonnay has a fruitier aspect. Both are perfect for aperitifs or cheese platters.

Then come the village appellations: Saint-Romain, Santenay and Puligny-Montrachet. It’s immediately obvious that we’ve moved upmarket with more complex whites.

In terms of aromatic notes of white flowers, white-fleshed fruit and even toasted brioche. The whole is balanced by the freshness and minerality of the Côte de Beaune’s clay-limestone terroirs. The perfect accompaniment to a trout or poultry dish with cream sauce.

Last but not least, the estate’s flagship white Premier Crus: Clos Saint Jean, Maltroie and Referts in Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos Marcilly in Mercurey and Charmes in Meursault. Superb wines, even more concentrated in flavor and longer on the palate than the villages. Undoubtedly festive wines, they’ll go perfectly with exceptional dishes like lobster, scallops or a Bresse capon with morels.

On the red side, the range starts with two Beaujolais from the Morgon cru, one of the region’s most famous. This is a Beaujolais that strikes a balance between delicacy and power. It can be enjoyed on its fruit in its early years, but can also be cellared for greater complexity.

In Burgundy, we start with village appellations: Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, Volnay and Savigny-lès-Beaune. These are wines that can be kept for several years, allowing their aromas of fresh red fruits and flowers to become more complex, sharing the stage with notes of undergrowth and game. A boeuf bourguignon or a good roast will suit them perfectly.

Finally, the premier crus, La Maladière in Santenay and Clos Marcilly in Mercurey, are also gaining in power and concentration compared to the villages. The tannins are finer and the ageing potential greater. Wait a few years before opening them, then treat yourself to characterful dishes such as civet or tournedos Rossini.

Photo : Domaine Héritiers Saint Genys