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The Graves appellation
Recognized as an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée since 1937 by the INAO, Graves wines are made from vines planted over 60 kilometers along the left bank of the Garonne, between La Brède and Langon. In total, the appellation’s vineyards cover some 3,500 hectares, on a variety of soils. The terroirs of the Graves form a unique geological lacework of pebbles, cobbles and gravel. These poor soils, coupled with high permeability, are beneficial for water runoff, and as the vines are planted on slopes, this ensures optimum regulation of water supply. The Graves climate is temperate, with a strong influence from the Atlantic Ocean, and is largely favorable to viticulture, with mild temperatures. The Graves winegrowing boom really began between the 16th and 18th centuries, when a number of large estates decided to market their production under the name of “vins de graves”, which were then considered the Bordeaux wines par excellence. Until the end of the 18th century, Graves wines dominated the market, and were massively exported to England and Northern Europe. Faced with the wine crises affecting the Bordeaux vineyards, increasing urbanization and competition from the New World, Graves wines were to experience some difficulties. But an economic revival in the 1970s revived the momentum, and the work of passionate winemakers established the reputation of these wines once and for all. It’s also worth noting that only one Graves cru, Château Haut-Brion, features in the famous 1855 classification. But a classification dating back to 1953, drawn up by the appellation’s producers, distinguishes 16 crus classés.
The 2015 vintage
The 2015 vintage is considered by industry professionals to be a great vintage, exceptional in both quality and quantity. The weather was relatively kind to the vines, with a fairly mild spring, followed by a very hot summer (June was the hottest in Aquitaine for over a century), but with some beneficial rain in August. The dry white wines are fruity and dense, and rounder than those of the 2014 vintage. The red wines are charming and subtle. The mellow wines (also known as Graves Supérieurs), made from over-ripe grapes, are clean and pure, combining freshness, richness and elegance. In red, the Graves 2015 reveals a very attractive nose, with aromas of black plum, raspberry, violet and undergrowth. The palate has great depth, with a soft, fleshy texture and long, succulent fruit. It makes an excellent accompaniment to red meat, or truffle-flavored mashed potatoes. In white, the 2015 vintage has a nose of citrus fruit and white flowers, with subtle notes of toasted bread, and a round, well-balanced palate, with lovely freshness and a lively, aromatic finish. Pair with fish in sauce, or spicy vegetables.
Photo : Vignobles Haverlan