Chassagne-Montrachet: the 2017 vintage

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The Chassagne-Montrachet appellation

Recognized as an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée since 1937, the vines of the Chassagne-Montrachet appellation are planted in the south of the Côte de Beaune, between the communes of Chassagne-Montrachet and Remigny (only a few vines are planted there, the majority being in Chassagne-Montrachet). The two king grape varieties of Burgundy are represented here: Chardonnay is in the majority (representing 215.93 hectares in 2018), followed by Pinot Noir (92.16 hectares). The Chassagne-Montrachet appellation is classified as AOC Village, AOC Premier Cru and AOC Grand Cru. Of all the climats authorized to produce the appellation, 55 are classified Premier Cru (including, for example, Les Murées, La Roquemaure and La Cardeuse) and 3 are classified Grands Crus (Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet). The vines are located at a relatively low altitude (between 220 and 325 meters), and planted on a variety of soils depending on the climate: limestone and stony soils, marl soils or sandier soils.

The Chassagne-Montrachet appellation, with its varied soils and continental climate conducive to the production of high-quality wines, produces fine, well-balanced wines. White wines can be recognized by their aromas of hawthorn, acacia, verbena and hazelnut, with occasional notes of toast or fresh butter (which will evolve into honeyed notes or ripe pear over time). The red Chassagne-Montrachet wines reveal a concentrated, flavorful structure, with notes of morello cherry, cherry pit and raspberry.

The 2017 vintage

2017 was an extremely good year for Burgundy, after two rather difficult years in terms of production. This has enabled production to return to full capacity, with very promising quality. Weather conditions were favorable throughout the year, with a summer-like spring (very mild temperatures, no dramatic frost episodes except in the Chablisien and Côte Chalonnaise regions) and a fairly hot summer that enabled the grapes to ripen without suffering too many stress episodes. The result is a fairly early vintage, with harvesting starting at the end of August in many vineyards, particularly in the Chassagne-Montrachet appellation, and with excellent ageing potential.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet whites are a very good vintage, with the Chardonnay revealing its full expression with aromas of green tea and citrus, which will evolve towards notes of dried fruit (hazelnut in particular) and rare spices over the years. On the palate, the aromatic persistence is remarkable, carried by floral and gingerbread notes. Pair with parsley ham or chanterelle risotto.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet reds are very harmonious and subtle. Intense aromas of candied fruit, blackcurrant and smoky notes. On the palate, the body is well-structured, with a fine minerality, the fruitiness of pinot noir is well present, and the finish is long and pleasant. Serve with coq au vin, or brillat-savarin (a creamy Burgundian cheese).

Photo : Adobe Stock / Alain Rappeneau