A vineyard on the bangs of Burgundy

The Auxerrois vineyards are among the most famous in France, thanks in particular to Chablis and its world-famous white wines. But let’s not forget that Yonne is closer to Champagne than to Côte d’Or, the historic heart of Burgundy. The INAO has also been working on a project to prohibit Chablis wines from using the Burgundy name. Although this did not result in a decree, it is still proof of the marginalization of the greater Auxerrois area from Burgundy.

Yet the spirit of Yonne wines remains Burgundian to the core: single-vineyard wines and a parcel-based approach to viticulture – the famous Burgundy climats – are the rule. Similarly, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir rule the roost in the wine world, with little competition from other grape varieties (Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté, Pinot Gris…).

Chablis wines

We couldn’t talk about the Grand Auxerrois vineyards without first stopping at Chablis to understand how the village and its vines have become the nerve center of this corner of Burgundy. At first glance, Chablis is nothing more than a small Burgundy wine village with a charming market every Sunday morning. But on closer inspection, we realize that it’s located on a terroir envied by all, including the winemakers in the Montrachet Grands Crus.

This terroir is first and foremost a marl-limestone soil that gives Chablis wines their minerality and salinity. The presence of a river, the Serein, brings coolness and draughts, meaning that the vines do not suffer from heat or disease. Add to this the slopes’ perfect exposure to capture maximum sunlight, and you have a recipe for Chardonnays of anthology. The best plots are classified as Premier Cru or Grand Cru.

The adage “no great wine without great terroir” is amply borne out in the case of Chablis, where we find wines that reflect their terroir: fresh, mineral, saline, but also marked by a certain roundness and sweetness provided by the Chardonnay – and long barrel vinification in some cases. The perfect match between wine and terroir is also evident on the plate, with a glass of Chablis the perfect accompaniment to a dish of escargots à la Bourguignonne or gougères.

The rest of the Grand Auxerrois

For a long time, the vineyards bordering Chablis remained in its shadow, due to a lack of resources and winegrowers willing to commit themselves fully. But more and more estates are producing great Sauvignon in Saint-Bris, superb Irancy or masterful Aligotés. Their secret is to pay attention to their terroir, that is, to what makes their appellations unique, and to adopt appropriate viticulture and vinification techniques.

This means, above all, cultivation in line with organic or biodynamic principles, so that the vines find strength in the soil, and constant attention to the vines’ needs.