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Viré Clessé is a white wine from Burgundy, in the Mâcon sub-region of Saône et Loire.

 

A typical Mâconnais appellation

Like most Mâconnais appellations (including Pouilly-Fuissé, Saint- Véran and Mâcon-Villages),Viré-Clessé is a white wine made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. A decree dated February 26, 1999 replaced the 437.34 ha of the former regional appellations Mâcon-Clessé and Mâcon-Viré with a single village appellation: Viré Clessé.

Mâconnais illustrates a highly complex French-style pyramid of appellations, with numerous sub-levels in the different categories. Already, the region produces almost exclusively AOC wines, and therefore no PGI (protected geographical indication) and few Vins de France. Next comes the traditional classification within the AOC field itself: we distinguish between regional AOCs, communal AOCs (of which Viré-Clessé is one) and finally Premiers Crus, which only the neighboring AOC Pouilly-Fuissé is authorized to award on 22 climats. This is a new feature for September 2020, since previously the Mâconnais region had no Cru. Within the regional AOC category, there are also different levels: generic Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages and Mâcon + village name.

 

Chardonnay, king of the Mâconnais region

A native of the region, Lamartine was effusive in his praise: Chardonnay was by far the poet’s favorite grape variety. This grape variety is highly adaptable to all types of terroir, but produces very different wines depending on the terroir. In southern Burgundy, especially Viré Clessé, it produces wines that are both fresh and delicious. Citrus notes come to the fore, counterbalancing the roundness and fatness of the Chardonnay. This is essentially due to the region’s very chalky soils, which allow the grapes to soak up water all year round. Being more southerly, they also gorge themselves with aromas through photosynthesis, which awakens the grape’s fruity citrus side.

Finally, human intervention is important in the cellar: malolactic fermentation (which transforms malic acids into lactic acids for a milky, buttery flavour) is frequent, as are bâtonnage and ageing on lees. Unlike the prestigious Côte d’Or, wood is rarely used in the Mâconnais, as it can mask the fresh, fruity aromas sought in Viré Clessé wines.

 

Le Viré Clessé 2018

To focus on Viré Clessé 2018, it is important to note that this vintage was particularly favorable. After 2017, which was a relatively classic year for Burgundy: cool, with a number of somewhat complicated episodes such as hail in the spring and then heat-affected toast in the summer, 2018 arrives as a blessing. Viré Clessé 2018 benefits from an ideal year from a meteorological point of view. It rained a lot in winter, then was dry and hot in summer: the grapes were in perfect health, the bunches full of sugar and aromas. The perfect recipe for making concentrated, aromatic wines.

Viré Clessé 2018 is therefore a highly aromatic wine, with citrus and white and yellow-fleshed fruits (quince, peach…). Although not very complex, it has a very interesting structure and a fine balance between freshness, fatness and fruit. Delicious with river fish in beurre blanc. The richness of the wine and sauce will delight your palate, while the delicacy of the fish will let the fresh, fruity aromas of the wine shine through!

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