Beaujolais Wines join forces with the prestigious World’s Best Sommelier Competition. The aim is to raise the profile of the Beaujolais region, its exceptional wines, its winemakers’ quest for excellence and the richness of its terroirs.
Meet Charles Compagnon, a man of many hats, including sommelier!
Today, Twil is sharing a moment with Charles Compagnon, sommelier and owner of several restaurants and an estate in the Beaujolais region:
How did you get to where you are today?
“I started out at a hotel school at the age of 15, taking a baccalauréat and then a BTS in hotel management. On the whole, I’ve always worked in the catering industry. I spent over 4 years with the Costes group. Then, at 26, I opened my first restaurant on Avenue Georges V.
After that, I headed for New York, where I worked for the James Beard Foundation, which promotes gastronomy in the United States. At the same time, I took sommelier exams (level 1 and 2).”
“Back in France, one restaurant opening followed another: l’Office, le Richer in 2012 and 52 Faubourg St-Denis in 2014. In 2018, I decided to open my coffee roasting store under the Café Compagnon brand. Finally, I recently acquired an estate in the Beaujolais called Charmetemps, which has been certified organic since 2010.”
The world of Beaujolais and Charles Compagnon
What is your opinion of the Beaujolais region and its development?
“I think Beaujolais is a great region, especially the southern Beaujolais, which is a terroir close to Burgundy. The same grape variety is used for the white, Chardonnay, followed by its cousin, Gamay (a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais). As for the terroir, it’s geo-limestone with a little special feature in that there are little golden stones with iron oxide in them, which is a rather unique typicity.”
“I’m very happy with the estate I acquired recently, because it includes Gamay, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which I have in the Coteaux Bourguignon appellation, as well as Muscat. In short, I have 4 different grape varieties and that gives me a multitude of possibilities! “
“When it comes to running the estate, my oenologist friend Jean-François Coquard is with me, and we’re also partners with Sylvain Brondel, a winemaker who also looks after the vineyard. However, I remain at their side even though I don’t really take part in the vineyard tasks. I taste the wines on a regular basis, especially on casks, so we can see them evolve and compare vintages. I’m also there for the harvest and throughout the year, so it’s great! “
What do you think are the best food and wine pairings in the Beaujolais region?
“Generally speaking, Beaujolais wines are the perfect accompaniment to white meats, veal and fish in sauce.
I’m thinking, for example, of a wing of skate meunière with a white Beaujolais, which is delicious!
I can imagine small lamb chops with light home fries, served with a rather light and supple Gamay red Beaujolais from a vintage that’s not very warm.
More generally, there are a huge number of possible agreements. Wines in a warm vintage are more likely to be wines for laying down, and in years like 2021 when vintages are colder, the wines are more likely to be light wines.”
Charles adds that all his wines are vinified in the Burgundian style, i.e. carbonic maceration, so there’s no style of wine to speak of.
What inspires you every day?
“Undeniably, it’s seasonal produce that inspires me every day. Depending on what’s available on the market, I establish my recipes accordingly.”
What do you think of the ageing potential of Beaujolais wines?
“Warm vintages and well-built wines can be kept for a long time. For some Burgundy wines, we’re talking about ten or even twenty years. The cellar can therefore be filled easily and for a very long time with certain Beaujolais wines! “
Discover the sophisticated, gourmet cuisine of Charles Compagnon at his
his many restaurants.
Champagne and wine lover ! 🥂🍷
